The One Activity EVERYONE Should Do in Costa Rica (And No, It Isn't a Beach!)

Okay so let’s be real here: Costa Rica is pretty much ROYALTY when it comes to all things beaches, waterfalls, rainforests, volcanoes, and super duper cold beers, obviously. And yes, you should do all of those if you can. (Especially if you can combine a super duper cold beer with a beach, waterfall, rainforest or volcano.)

HOWEVAH, there’s one activity that you really shouldn’t freaking miss, and it’s one that you miiiiight not have put very high on your priority list: THE HOT SPRINGS IN ARENAL. Specifically, the hot springs at Tabacon in Arenal. And they’re not even paying me to say that.

Arenal is the most famous volcano in the country, and hell yes it’s worth the trip: but not because of the volcano! Actually, out of the four times I’ve been there, I’ve only seen the volcano clearly once—and that’s a pretty standard average. Because don’t forget, you’re also next door to a cloud forest. So, clouds. However, that doesn’t matter because you don’t go to Arenal to snap a picture of a volcano and be done with it: you go to Arenal to sit your ass in some of the world’s most luxurious, high-end, Eden-like hot spring gardens the world has ever seen.

My favorite by a hundred hell yeahs are the hot springs at Tabacon: they. are. STUNNING.

You don’t have to stay at Tabacon to enter the hot springs: you can pay for a day pass, and it’s soooooooooooo well worth it. (Though if you have the budget to stay at Tabacon, do.) These aren’t just some random holes in the ground like you might find in, I dunno, the campo of Argentina (been there, done that!); these feel like walking into pristinely landscaped Japanese zen gardens with a labyrinth of manicured paths surrounded by tropical flowering plants, each leading to a different secret hot spring lagoon and cascading waterfall—all of varying size and temperature, but all feeling like their own secluded nook—that’s been designed with gorgeous rock installations that are sparkling clean so you feel like you’re in a crystal-clear pool—not AT ALL like a slimy, frog-filled pond. (Like, truly, there’s nothing slimy or dark or algae-like about it—and that is why I looooove Tabacon—in addition to the fact that the thermal waters at Tabacon are 100% thermal waters from the volcano, heated by the magma and mineralized underground, as opposed to water being recirculated and reheated by gas pumps.) It’s definitely high-end and definitely worth the money: it’s an experience you’ll never forget, and you’ll find yourself wanting to return again and again.

In addition to their extensive gardens of hot springs, they also have a resort-like area that has several restaurants, changing rooms, and 5 pools, one of which is a volcanic-water pool, complete with swim-up bar. But don’t picture it like a crowded cruise-ship scene: this is more an exclusive kind of place with couples walking around in thick, white robes and sunglasses than it is hoards of screaming kids. That said, Tabacon is family-friendly, but a lot of families end up going to the Baldi hot springs because they’re far more “flashy, jungle-gym, laser-show” style, complete with mariachi bands. Baldi is a nice resort, but their hot springs can’t hold a candle to Tabacon if you’re looking for “holy shit garden of Eden.”

The other famous option is The Springs, and while high-end, tends to exude a more traditional rustic charm (as opposed to chic modern rainforest). I’d still go with Tabacon any day of the week. (And again, I swear this isn’t an ad: I just love it that much.)

The nice thing about Arenal is that it’s much cooler there than it is in other parts of the country, so the hot springs end up feeling glorious.

Something about this town feels like a true hidden gem: expect to find adorable little pizza shops, wine bars, and gorgeous garden restaurants along the main road. The area, while remote, feels luxe—and there’s plenty to do while you’re there, too. There’s the Arenal Volcano National Park you can go hiking in; there’s horseback riding; there are zip lines nearby; and, of course, you should plan on spending a full day at the hot springs. (Especially to get your money’s worth.)

My recommendation? If you’re flying into SJO, hit up Arenal as your first stop for a beautiful introduction to the country. You could do it as your last stop, too, if you think you’ll be tired and sunburned and want to relax in hot springs afterward; the only thing I’d caution you on is that the ride from Arenal to the airport is way less direct and curvy and more countryside than it will be from any beach, so you’d have to really account for plenty of time to get yourself back to SJO in time. It’s sometimes easier to go from SJO to Arenal to whatever beach you’re headed to, and then take the straight shot highway back to the airport on your way out.

No matter what you do though? Definitely build this in. It’s one place that’s absolutely worth the trouble.